A Moment of Tranquility

We are at the Basilica di Santo Quattro Coronati, in an ancient cloister in the middle of Rome. After walking through the busiest streets in Rome, I am shocked at how quiet and tranquil this cloister is. I am sitting on a dark stone bench listening to the only sound in the room (possibly the only sound in the building), the trickle of water from a twelfth century fountain in the center of the courtyard. I wonder if the quiet is due to the nuns' vow of silence or the seclusion of this small church high up above the bustling streets of Rome.

We were just told that this church dates back to 500 AD, which makes me wonder how much of this courtyard is really that old and how much has been recently added. I think it is safe to assume that the shrubs in tan plastic pots are recent additions. It is more difficult to guess when the painted patterns of red and green teardrops or the stained brown and yellow triangles were added to the underside of all the arches that frame the courtyard. There are also fragments of rocks on the wall, some with writing on it. These are probably from the excavations in the church that resulted in the discovery of all these ancient artifacts.

There is a sign that details the restoration efforts. It is fascinating to see the picture of an ancient column that was cleaned by laser. I usually think of restoration works as an expert using a delicate brush to carefully clear centuries of dirt from ruins, not the use of high-tech lasers to remove dirt quickly and efficiently.

There is one stone on the wall that is a mystery to me. In the center, there is the word(s?) LOCUSURICITFELICITATIS. It is strange because the words are carved almost haphazardly, like the carver was in a hurry to finish this particular inscription. The stone seems out of place next to smaller stones with lines of carefully carved inscriptions. Did the carver have a reason for rushing through this inscription? Was he less skilled than the carvers of the other stones I see?

I also find it strange that there is a small gift stand inside the cloister. After walking around the open courtyard, I see a table and a card stand with postcards and books on sale. Even though I know that we are still in Rome, it surprises me to see this particular part of the modern world in this quiet cloister. It seems intrusive, like it is disrupting the peace in this silent space.